- Climbers shot at in Little Cottonwood Canyon? Ya because taking a gnarly fall and trusting my chatty belayer to catch me didn’t make this sport scare the heck out of me already. Thank you strangers in the green Sudan.
The first time I heard this I was watching the news in my kitchen in Logan, Utah. I was relieved to hear none of the climbers got hit and then mind blown at the thought of that happening to me as a climber! I snap-chatted my climbing group chat about it to get everyones reactions and everyone pretty much asked the same questions, what the heck? and why? It’s pretty crazy that 7 climbers could get shot at for no obvious reason and that the shooters could just drive off without an explanation and little to no chances of getting caught. I decided to hike a couple miles in the next time I climbed and I felt pretty blessed as I was up on all wall and all I felt like I had to worry about was nailing a heal hook on the crux, not getting shot at by strangers.
- It’s time we let ourselves be the newbie who just isn’t good a climbing yet without all the excuses
I meet you almost every time I climb at the gym. Yes you who struggles on a V2 and tells me not to bother on it because it’s impossible. I’ve been you. And I’ll probably really like you in a couple weeks after we’ve bonded over our mutual love Trevor Hall playing in the background and those two times you offered to belay me when my partner was late. But today is only your second time climbing and let’s face it you’re not very strong yet and everything seems really hard. THIS IS OK! It’s ok that you’re not a 19 year old girl who can climb a 5.15 (Margo Hayes you beautiful creature you’re my hero). And it’s ok you haven’t quit your job to live at the bottom of Yosemite and climb 23 hours a day. But its time to let ourselves suck without telling the short girl it’s because “you weighs less” and the tall guy its because “you have a longer reach”. The thing is nobody hates the newbie at the gym who keeps trying and usually falling while looking really awkward. We hate the new guy who talks about how he went climbing with his brother in law once and is pretty much the next Alex Honnold now, but doesn’t want to try any of the routes. And we don’t care if the only technical term you know is “send it” and your shoes are purple evolves. I actually really like you mr new guy who doesn’t understand you’re suppose to get to the top using only certain holds and not just anyone you can reach, because you remind me that even though I feel like a super amateur 99 percent of the time I’ve got jack-rabbit leg on a 5.10, I’ve still made a lot of progress and so will you. http://semi-rad.com/2017/05/dear-new-guy-at-the-climbing-gym/
- A little bit about what you’ll be blowing all your paychecks on this year
- Edelrid Ohm – This little puppy is real high on my 100lb selfs Christmas list. For me the only thing scarier than a lead fall is belaying a lead fall. I know I’m going to get whipped up the wall to that first bolt and I pray my climber isn’t going to hate me forever because of it. This new assisted-breaking resister you set up in place of your quick draw at the first bolt. “In the event of a fall, the OHM increases the amount of rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty.” It also highly-reduces the risk of taking an early grounder! https://www.edelrid.com/us/sports/sa-accessoires/ohm.html
- Petzl Grigri+ – I’ve been asking myself for months why I haven’t invested in a Grigri yet and I guess it was a blessing because now that the plus is out I don’t even want to waste my time with the original. This new design incorporates something they’re calling anti-panic technology (so great for teaching unpredictable new climbing friends). It basically can tell if the release handle is pulled on to hard and will cause the lowering to stop. It’s also lighter and cheaper and they’ve added a new protective plate in an area that use to get worn down on the first grigris.
- Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet – Yay for designers who are thinking of us women who’ve ripped out hair out in an ATC because we couldn’t put it in a pony tail while still wearing a helmet! This is feminism at it’s finest! This new shell design is pony tail friendly and theres some other cool features like head lamp clips and stuff but really I’m just excited for my hair.
4. A short list of every climber you’ve ever met
- Couch Crushers (aka Naturals) – they’re up there with those born into the royal family, lottery winners, and people who tan instead of get sunburnt. You’re lucky and you don’t deserve you’re success any more than the rest of us but yet you can go 6 months without climbing, walk into a gym and finish a project I’ve been working on since it was set.
- Elites – “They band together and share stories of hard climbs, secret areas, and the injuries that keep them from reaching their full potential.”
- High Rollers – ya they climb but they really like spending money on climbing. They invest in apparel and gear and magazines and of course, start up gyms.
- IKEs – The “I Know Everythings” They know all the beta, diets, and climbers you could imagine but they’re probably pretty average when it comes do doing it themselves.
- Original Climbing Gangstas (OCGs) – They’ve been climbing since before it was an olympic sport and they don’t want to hear about any up and coming gear or “new crags” because they’ve probably already climbed there and the old gear works great.
- Purists – they know what climbing is best and all others are trash.
- Self-Worthers – Climbing addicts who base their self worth on how hard the climb is? Yep sounds about right. They make excuses when they can’t climb it and they’re on a total high when they can.
- Soul Climbers (aka Unicorns) – if you’re a soul climber and you’re reading this please dm me immediately and teach me your ways of climbing with no more purpose than to be closer to the heavens. Do I need to do more yoga? How do I get your zen?
- Trainers – do they even like climbing or are they just doing it to get even bigger pecks? Is it even possible to get bigger pecks than that? Admit it you think protein shakes are gross.
- Widgeteers – they’ve read about and own every piece of climbing gear on black diamonds website. Who needs to climb when you can just buy more gear.
5. A Friendly Reminder
- While climbing DO NOT let the rope wrap/run around/behind your leg(s), when you fall you will flip upside down! Therefore always know where the rope is!
- DO NOT Kick/Push off the wall, you will only pendulum back into it harder!!!
- Always know where on the route you are; have you climbed above a roof and not placed any gear yet? Are you going to take an awkward swing? Are you going to hit the deck?